Albergues absolutely rock!

Albergues absolutely rock! They are a wonderful part of the Camino experience. At their best, they are the epitome of the micro-society of pilgrims that is a big part of making the Camino a very special experience. Given alternatives, my first choice is always to stay in an albergue, but buyer beware. Albergue prices are low and sometimes you get what you pay for.

Albergues can be anywhere. I’ve found albergues in downtown areas and in the middle of a cow pasture (only a slight exaggeration, that’s the albergue on the right, it’s actually at the edge of the pasture). The Camino itself, visible as a narrow dun colored path, does go through the middle of the pasture, so it was necessary to tread carefully.

Albergues vary a lot. The following descriptions are generalizations that should be seen as guidelines rather than reliable definitions. There are huge overlaps between the different types of facilities, so the crafty senior citizen does some research before setting out and is always ready to make a change in plans.

Generally Speaking

Price

All albergues are inexpensive. Some, and usually those that require a credential, are operated by volunteers or clergy, and simply ask for a donation. Others have a variety of fixed prices for a bunk and other services.

This is communal, and often quite basic, housing. Most folks shower, then sleep in the clothes they expect to wear the next day. Not everyone is extremely modest as pajamas or even just underwear are not unheard of as sleeping attire. Some peregrinos are comfortable changing in very slightly out of sight locations.

Categories

There are two general categories of albergues, those open to the public and those open only to pilgrims with a Camino credential or passport.

Public Albergues

I believe most albergues are open to the general public and no Camino credential required. Some of these albergues emphasize being oriented toward pilgrims in their advertising, but the mix of folks staying in them can vary because they are simply low-cost hostels. Most of the people in these albergues may not be peregrinos at any given time and this has a significant effect on the experience of staying in one. My personal example for this was an albergue not far from a popular surfing beach during the surfing season. I was the only person there who was not a surfer and, while welcome, felt out of place.

Peregrinos Only Albergues Rock

Some albergues are for “pilgrims only” and require a Camino credential to register. Since credentials are very easy to get (one may even be available at the albergue), the requirement is well known, and one qualifies as a peregrino simply by asking for a credential, this is not the strictest possible possible rule. That said, the majority of folks I’ve run into in such albergues have been pilgrims rather than tourists and have a very strong community vibe that I love.

Accommodations

Bunkrooms

Albergues do not have separate bedrooms, they have bunkrooms. The bunkrooms vary widely in size from just a few bunks to dozens. More bunks mean more distraction as one tries to sleep. Peregrinos are human, so they snore, go to the bathroom in the middle of the night, and, uh, there are other sounds and smells as well. Many pilgrims also choose to begin their day very early, so they are active with flashlights dressing and packing gear before the sun shows itself on the horizon.

For me as an older person, the hearing loss that often comes with age is not necessarily a bad thing in a bunkroom. I’ve read that eye coverings and ear plugs help but have not tried them.

The temperature in the bunkroom can vary widely because albergues vary widely. They can be chilly enough to make one want a substantial blanket or so warm that even a light cover is a bit too much.

Bunks

Albergues provide beds bunkbed style with upper and lower bunks. The bunks are assigned on a first come, first served basis; the pilgrim’s sex and age do not matter and I can personally attest to the fact that getting into an upper bunk is much harder at 77 than it was at 17. The agility with which some young folks arrive in the most difficult bunk locations can be almost as impressive as that displayed by Simone Biles.

The bunks in albergues come with a mattress, a pillow, and disposable sanitary / insect protection covers for them that are quite delicate and are easily torn. Sheets are not provided. Blankets may or may not be available, but their cleanliness may be suspect if they are.

I use a silk sleeping bag liner with a pillow pouch as a substitute for sheets. Many peregrinos carry a three-season sleeping bag.

Bathroom and Toilet Facilities

Albergues do not have private showers or toilets. While the general approach is separate locker areas with men’s and women’s showers and toilets, unisex is not unheard of.

Kitchens, Food, and the Like

This is, perhaps, the area of greatest variation from one albergue to the next. Some albergues provide dinner and breakfast as part of their hospitality. These meals are served to all the guests simultaneously and are typically simple fare such as pasta and wine for dinner and toast and coffee for breakfast.

Some albergues sell groceries, including wine. Many have kitchens that vary from a refrigerator and microwave to a complete kitchen for pilgrims to cook a significant meal. These tend to be small, however, and can easily become overtaxed if more than one peregrino is doing real cooking at the same time.

Laundry Facilities

Most peregrinos have very limited clothing with them, one or two changes, so laundry facilities are important. Despite that, it is often necessary to wash clothes by hand, testing one’s arm strength to wring as much water out of them as possible. The most rustic laundry capability I’ve run into was a cold water tap and small plastic tub outside the building; bring your own soap. The drying capability is often an indoor or outdoor clothesline, an approach that can leave things quite damp the following morning. It is not uncommon to see peregrinos hiking along with some still damp laundry attached to their backpack, waving in the breeze. This works fine on a sunny day, but rainy days are common on the del Norte route.

Some places have coin operated washers and some have both washers and driers. These are often oversubscribed, so sharing loads helps. My own experience has convinced me that the price of an automatic washer and drier is secondary to how clean and dry my clothes are as a result of using them.

Albergues in urban areas are often, but not always, close to a laundromat.